Stand back for the arrival of a giant!
James Suckling about 2017 Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" GG
tasting report of September 19, 2018
Stand back for the arrival of a giant! Super-fresh nectarine, vanilla and Thai-basil aromas that don't leave you in any doubt that this is a very remarkable dry riesling. Then the tidal wave of minerality comes through at the finish and sweeps everything away. 98/100 points!
The dry wines are probably the best ever produced here
Robert Parkers Wine Advocate
Germany: Vintage 2015 | Part Two – Rheingau and Pfalz
With the 2015 vintage, Müller-Catoir has bottled another excellent collection. The dry wines are probably the best ever produced here and if you still have no relation with Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Müller-Catoir's oak and malolactic-free bottlings could be a welcome chance to change any pre-judgements. The sweet wines are already famous and the 2015s are excellent arguments for this fame.[..]
The 2014s Rieslings are simply excellent and the noble sweet Rieslaners are outstanding.
Robert Parkers Wine Advocate
Germany: Vintage 2014 | All Along the Rhine River
[..]The 2014s Rieslings are simply excellent and the noble sweet Rieslaners are outstanding. Indeed, the wines of MC have become deeper and even more precise and elegant in recent years. I already liked the 2013s, but I was really impressed by the quality and intensity of the 2014s. These are concentrated and well balanced, and come along with moderate alcohol levels which Martin Franzen compares to those of the 1990s. They are true individuals in a very noble and balanced style, although they don't lack tension or expression.[..]
You can drink trendier, but hardly better!
Posted on June 19, 2015 by Stuart Pigott
When the winery Müller-Catoir bought three hectares of the Haardter Bürgergarten in the middle of the nineties, that purchase seemed a promise that the current heavenly wines would from that moment on be displaced by astral wines. Stuart predicted that "at dawn crowds of customers will line up in front of the winery`s impressive red gate to get hold of at least one bottle." (Stuart Pigott, The Leading Winemakers and Wines of Germany, Econ, Düsseldorf 1997). It didn`t turn out that way. Let`s put it right: it actually did turn out like that. The wines became better than ever before, but nobody pushed in front of the gate begging for a fair share. After a final highlight, the vintage 2001, the legendary cellarmaster Hans-Günther Schwarz left the winery, not quite peacefully, which made the start for his successor twice as difficult.
Today nobody in the wine scene talks about the wines of Müller-Catoir and if so, then it is in the past tense. This seems unfair, but is good for me, because I don`t have to threat with suicide in order to get wines. I just buy them comfortably in the online shop at a fair price. Let the others keep indulging in their mineral extremism or arouse themselves with over-wood-tasting Riesling. I`ll stick to the classic way: fruit and minerality, elegance and finesse, sensuality and sexiness. All these qualities the Müller-Catoir wines have in plenty, just as before. Only the style changed.
Under the new cellarmaster, Martin Franzen, the highly expressive, senses overstraining fruit aromas paired with utmost brilliance and perfect balance gave way to a calmer mineral style. Are the wines weaker for this reason? NO! Have they become more boring? If so, then only for supernerds who want to explain the wine world with snatches of overheard half-truths at wine tastings, thereby covering up their ignorance of style and taste. Today they show off by naming great Müller-Catoir wines of the Schwarz era they once drank while at the same time putting very fruity wines on the index.
I could go on endlessly. Every single Müller-Catoir wine I have tasted within the last years I still have in mind. One is better than the other.
But here we talk about the vintage 2014. And that is damn`good.
Strangely enough the simplest wine, the MC Riesling Dry, is the most closed one at the moment.The first bottle Herrenletten Riesling, however, we inhaled. I didn`t take any notes, although I had wanted to. Tasting the second bottle I had to pull myself together in order to sort out my taste sensations: in the nose vineyard peach, passion fruit, a small stinker, wet stone. On the palate very yellowfruity, a lot of vineyard peach again, a great mineral acidity, backbone, almost predominant, but the wine has plenty of substance. The 2014 Bürgergarten Riesling at the moment appears even a little finer and nuanced, after a week in the open bottle it shows a remarkable mutation and appears now very lean and iodine, mineral , with the taste of ripe lemon with a salty finish. No doubt these wines stand at the beginning of a long development. He or she, who succumbs to the wines enchanting fruit aromas should drink them within the next months, afterwards they will close and show a new facet in a couple of years.
The 2014 "Breumel in den Mauern" Riesling Spätlese appears still closed, thanks to its moderate sweetness, rather lean and elegant but with a lot of tension and power.
Müller-Catoir is rightly valued for its wines of aroma varities. The 2014 Haardt Scheurebe Dry is the proof positive that elegant dry and very sensual wines can be produced from this grape variety that is often underestimated. Forget Sauvignon - Blanc, drink Scheurebe. And the 2014 Haardt Muskateller Dry smells promising of ripe grapes, ripe peach, nutmeg and red grapefruit. It already tastes mineral and complex with plenty of indicated fruit notes that will become more significant within the next months.
You can drink trendier but hardly better!
The range is crowned by three fascinating noble sweet Rieslaner this year, all of them from the Haardter Herzog: the Auslese is very appealing already (...)
This year the Weißburgunder and Scheurebe "Ortsweine" from the Haardt are clear and clean as usual, the Weißburgunder has good substance and floral spiciness, the Scheu shows a lot of elderberry, citrus notes and subtle cassis, a slight bitterness brings excitement. Very good, indeed, is the Gutsriesling, it is stimulating and clear. We consider the village Riesling from Haardt on the same level as the single site wine from the Haardter Herrenletten, both of them have juice and much fruit, a sustained spiciness, a fine bite and good length. The single site wine from the Haardter Herrenletten is even more concise and present with a touch of bread crust flavour. From now on the Großes Gewächs" will be called Bürgergarten "Im Breumel". It is powerful and juicy as usual and is the most mineral and lasting among the Rieslings. From the "Breumel" there is also a sweet Spätlese which has a lot of magnificently sweet yellow fruit of apricot and peach, will buffered by a fine vivid acidity play. The range is crowned by three fascinating noble sweet Rieslaner, all of them from the Haardter Herzog: the Auslese is very appealing already and shows very clean fruit, fine citrus notes, some white nougat and spices, while the Beerenauslese is concentrated, creamy and complex, showing grape sugar-like sweetness and a fine fresh bite. The radiant golden yellow Trockenbeereauslese is an oily concentrate, dense and pure with a marvellous amount of fruit. The very fine lasting acidity play boosts the wine and gives it strength.
It is fair to say that the winery Müller-Catoir stands like a rock in the waves.
Wine Guide Germany 2016
All around it there is action, alarm, fashion here, trend there - and in the middle of it Müller-Catoir, unwaveringly pursuing its own style without ruffle or excitement. That means, for example, not to try to ingratiate themselves with the customers by offering the broadest possible range - in the winery a little bit more than a handfull of varieties is enough. The amount of dry Rieslings is also clear: starting with the Gutswein "MC" it reaches from Haardt, Bürgergarten and Herrenletten directly to the Großes Gewächs "Im Breumel". All of them fine and clearly defined if not to be called aristocratic. Again unbelievably radiant the dry Muskateller which you will find in the Pfalz only once. That also applies to the line of noble sweet growths with its fascinating clearness, opulence and abundance.